T-Bucket Forums: T-Bucket Forums

I have had one heck of a time with getting my t restarted after getting in the new engine. Went to crank engine slow cranking no matter what i did,redone the ground wires ,connections ect..found out the starter was cracked almost into by solenoid,got new starter and now it cranks ,no fire. Wired up the msd 6al box which i got off ebay used. Put on new pc-91 coil and a new distributor but no fire,got on web and msd says with aluminum heads they have to be grounded so did that,no fire. So i figured my box was bad so i bought a different distributor that didnt need the msd box to run ,no fire. Checked coil and found it was bad,new coil not in yet but i noticed that when i cranked it the voltage dropped to 9 volts on one side of the ignition switch and 1 volt on the side i had it wired to .. Does this mean my switch is bad also? How much voltage should i get at ignition switch while cranking? Thanks for info,bought car already wired and it was running fine before i messed with it lol..

I was browsing around the RPM website and was checking out the new roadster body. How much longer is it than a regular T body that it can fit 4 people Ron? I couldn't find any specs on the site.

Guys
I'm building the rolly stool for my Pontiac 400 so I can move it around while I set up the T. so here is the question. How much pan to ground clearance do you all run? I was going to set the pan on a 6" cinder-block but then decided to make it mobile and now I thought maybe 6" is too tall. Any thoughts? anyone Know the scrub height of a 165/15 tire?
Help!
Thanks!!

getting ready for tires and wheels for the t, running 15x31/2 wheels up front . what diameter tire do you run up front? im looking at 1558015

I was browsing the photo album and came across an old post about the TP cars. Does anyone know if their seat insert is still available or if anyone has some old ones in stock? I am not to sure the wife will like it but if it would free up a couple inches of leg room for me that would be great.

here is the link to the thread

I have found some more pics of the initial set up. This is where we spent a LOT of time playing around with the height to get it just right.
Pics say so much so here they are
 Steering-oct-08-(32).jpg (54.8K)
Number of downloads: 60
 Steering-oct-08-(29).jpg (92.56K)
Number of downloads: 77
 Steering-oct-08-(30).jpg (52.46K)
Number of downloads: 71
 Steering-oct-08-(27).jpg (222.21K)
Number of downloads: 69
 Steering-oct-08-(31).jpg (67.22K)
Number of downloads: 65
 general-view-Nov08-(7).jpg (65.67K)
Number of downloads: 68
 Steering-oct-08-(23).jpg (83.16K)
Number of downloads: 57

These also show a lot of the things I covered in the past posts... so enjoy
Theres quite a lot more to come so keep an eye on the new post

Gerry

which would be better lock washers or nylon lock nuts ? I am ready to go together for the last time

I need new coilover shocks. Current situation:

1. No adjustment left, shocks are adjusted all the way up
2. There is only 1-1/2” clearance between the frame and the diff with no rubber pad and it’s bottoming out on bumps
3. Center-to-center measurement is 13”
4. Shocks are angled at 60 degrees front-to-back with no side-to-side angle
5. I don't know the manufacturer or their rating.

I want to increase the space between the frame and the diff to about 3” and add a rubber pad to cushion any bumps. I believe the car is lighter than most because it is running a 4-cylinder Pinto SOHC engine. Finally found someone with scales and here are the results:

Weights with no passengers and full tank of gas:
Front: 700 pounds, Rear 1065

Weights with my wife and I onboard and full tank of gas:
Front: 857 pounds, Rear 1261.

I checked the coilover chart in the Speedway catalog but it refers to a side-to-side angle and not a front-to-back so I’m not sure how to calculate the needed shocks. Here are a couple of photos:.

Front view:




Rear view:



What would be the best coil/shock setup to install? Is there a way to determine this other than trial-and-error?

Thanks,
Bruce

Last summer I bought this disc brake conversion at a swap meet. It had been used on a Model A roadster and the seller said he was never quite satisfied with it. The price was right at $125 so I brought it home.I found the calipers to be both passenger side units which put the bleeder at the bottom on the drivers side. The caliper mount had also been modified for the spindle steering arm. A new set of calipers are on the way. When I started fabbing the caliper mount, I wanted one that would hide the disc and add some bling at the same time. here's what I came up with.

Here's the kit with the old mount, and the new one beside it,



Here's the mount installed. I still need to buy the hardware.




And from another angle,



The preliminary polishing is done. I will do the finish polishing during finial assembly.

Ron

Anyone know how many quarts of fluid a Powerglde takes?