T-Bucket Forums: T-Bucket Forums

I need new coilover shocks. Current situation:

1. No adjustment left, shocks are adjusted all the way up
2. There is only 1-1/2” clearance between the frame and the diff with no rubber pad and it’s bottoming out on bumps
3. Center-to-center measurement is 13”
4. Shocks are angled at 60 degrees front-to-back with no side-to-side angle
5. I don't know the manufacturer or their rating.

I want to increase the space between the frame and the diff to about 3” and add a rubber pad to cushion any bumps. I believe the car is lighter than most because it is running a 4-cylinder Pinto SOHC engine. Finally found someone with scales and here are the results:

Weights with no passengers and full tank of gas:
Front: 700 pounds, Rear 1065

Weights with my wife and I onboard and full tank of gas:
Front: 857 pounds, Rear 1261.

I checked the coilover chart in the Speedway catalog but it refers to a side-to-side angle and not a front-to-back so I’m not sure how to calculate the needed shocks. Here are a couple of photos:.

Front view:




Rear view:



What would be the best coil/shock setup to install? Is there a way to determine this other than trial-and-error?

Thanks,
Bruce

Last summer I bought this disc brake conversion at a swap meet. It had been used on a Model A roadster and the seller said he was never quite satisfied with it. The price was right at $125 so I brought it home.I found the calipers to be both passenger side units which put the bleeder at the bottom on the drivers side. The caliper mount had also been modified for the spindle steering arm. A new set of calipers are on the way. When I started fabbing the caliper mount, I wanted one that would hide the disc and add some bling at the same time. here's what I came up with.

Here's the kit with the old mount, and the new one beside it,



Here's the mount installed. I still need to buy the hardware.




And from another angle,



The preliminary polishing is done. I will do the finish polishing during finial assembly.

Ron

Anyone know how many quarts of fluid a Powerglde takes?

I have finally decided to break the piggy bank and get the Radir 12 Spoke spindle mount wheels. Well I just figured out that my car has Econoline spindles and that is a problem. Anyone ever done this before? Econoline spindles with 12 spoke Radir wheels?
Here is the issue. Seems that the Econoline spindle is very similar to the Ford spindle everyone is using. Difference is that the spindle is only 4.250 long where the Old Ford is 5.450 long.
Econoline spindle size:
Rear of the spindle where bearing goes is 1.250
Front of Spindle where bearing goes is .750
Length is 4.250
I talked to Rich at Radir and he said that they have a rear bearing that is 1.250 and they have a front bearing that is .750, but the wheel is built for the Ford spindle that is 5.450 long. I am thinking of machining the wheel so the front bearing is 1.200 further in. Rich said that the wheel has a ton of meat to do this. Anyone tried this before or has mounted these wheels on Econoline spindles?
I also talked to Jim at Wintec who suggested to change the spindles, problem with that is that the kingpin diameter is not the same, so the axle has to be reamed out and then I have to completely change the steering on the car Big bucks.

Any help from the T-bucket gods would be appreciated

I have a late 60's to late 70's 350 small block 4 bolt main. it is externally blanaced with both the straight and staggered starter pattern. i have a staggered pattern starter. can i run a 153t or 168t flexplate?

thanks
mark

Here is a picture of an intake I just received.
I am running a flat tappet 302. I hope to put in a Mustang
roller cam, lifters and push rods while I have the intake off.
Eastwood sent me an email about a discount on their powder
coating gun and I was hooked. I have an oven, to be wired
and hope to chrome coat the intake before installation.
Come on good weather.

Powder coating stuff just arrived.

Is it better to mount the relay close to the device being controled to minimize the length of the power wire or inside the body to protect from weather ?

Thanks

John

I was watching a video on Speedway motors website of a blue t bucket they built. It has an opening door with bomber seats and no interior. It appears to have no reinforcement inside the body. Are they that well built that even with a door they need no reinforcement?? Anyone have any comments on Speedway bodies?

Hello my friends,

I have a PC-91 coil. I plan to mount it on the inside & under the dash on the passenger side, and then run the wires thro' a hole in the firewall. Will this in any way cause electro-magnetic interference with my Electronic gauges?

The intent is to keep my firewall (which btw is fibeglass) looking as clean as possible on my T. I'll be cutting a wooden backer board to fit under the dash, and mount the coil and the fuseblock of the wiring harness and then run the wires from there.

Tips?, Ideas?

Thanks much!

A few pics of my new set up. I installed a Kugel 90 degree master cylinder set up. I believe this will give me more stopping power over the old corvair system I had before. I will be able to service the master cylinder thru the cowl door. I also incorparated the steering column support using a connecting rod.