Another calculator

tfeverfred · #1 08-21-2007, 08:46 PM

I posted a link in another thread for a MPH/ET caculator. Well, this link has another one and SOOOOOO much more! Check it out.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

Courtesy of the HAMB.

MDW · #2 08-21-2007, 11:40 PM

Nice link.
It says my Bucket should run 12.02 1/4 LOL

Nailbomb · #3 08-22-2007, 02:54 AM

"Your ET / MPH computed from your vehicle weight of 2000 pounds and HP of 325 is 10.67 seconds and MPH of 125.52 MPH"

That can't be good... You know i've joked around about getting kicked off a drag strip, but according to this they probably won't even let me run once down the strip without a cage...

am i way off on the weight or something?

well... did a little digging...

"

When it came to the T-bucket, Andrew reveals "As we blasted down the 1320, raw power an strength were the adjectives of the moment. How else can one explain low 12s on a street radial? A rollbar and a set of serious slicks were the only elements keeping us from more aggressive testing, or should we say the high 11s. On the slalom, the '23 exhibited predictable movements and less-than-expected body roll. The excess of power-on-tap allows the driver to steer with the accelerator at will. Our proposal: autocross--not that we would, but the thought crossed our minds." On the dyno, the T-bucket was a consistent runner, and it came back with 241.25 hp at the rear wheel with 270.62 ft-lbs of torque. Not bad for a 302 Ford motor! "

"
Total car weight1935 lbs"

guess not...

scource http://www.kitcarmag.com/roadtests/142_0407_chall1/

this really isn't good for me, I don't want a convertable with a cage:-P this pretty much narrows down my options...

Mike · #4 08-22-2007, 06:37 AM

I think Total Performance lists a small-block T curb weight at 1645 lbs., so your weight figures are probably accurate.

I've spent a lot of years at the track and a street T is the last thing I would want to try to race. When I was at Total, Brian showed me a video of his car taken at the track (Atco, perhaps?). This was a big-block car, but it was an absolute mess trying to get hold of the ground. And I suspect if it had, then it would have been a real handful.

Something that light with that much horsepressure is going to require some purpose built rear suspension pieces to plant the tires. And then the chassis is going to require considerable strengthening to keep everything where it is meant to be.

Several years ago, before Larry Morgan made the switch from Competition Eliminator to the Pro Stock cars, we were chatting at a race. His comment was something to the effect of, "I want to race so badly, I would race anything. With the one exception that I'm going to have to get IN whatever I'm racing. I'm not going to race anything I have to get ON."

When you look at the basic construction of most street T's, you're most certainly sitting on and not in the car.

Nailbomb · #5 08-22-2007, 12:16 PM

Heh, so your recomendation is to never race it? or probably get into the gas ever either?

I think my best options are either to find some vintage tin with a top so i can hide a cage, or try to find a guy who had a 1955 322 he was willing to sell...

theres always zippers modified coupe too, but its a bit pricey.

and honestly i thought if they sold frames with big block motor mounts that meant the frame should be able to handle big block power numbers in at least stock form...

Rick · #6 08-22-2007, 03:40 PM

I agree Mike.With only a 2.79 gear in mine the front end comes up and when it comes down it's not a fun ride.Granted it only comes up about 2 inches but i carry it for about 20-25 foot.God only knows how it will act with my new 3.86 gears.TRUST ME GUYS you won't like the ride, drag racing these things.Balls or no Balls.For one the frame twists and comes down on ONE WHEEL!!!!!!!! Shake rattle and roll.And when you go up you better remember what position your hands were in on the wheel.But alas i know all this crap will fall on deaf ears(as it did for me)You'll just have to DO IT YOUR SELF.Have fun

tfeverfred · #7 08-22-2007, 07:52 PM

Power to weight. I always knew these things would scoot like a scalded cat. Didn't need a calulator for it. I have talked to a couple of guys who started out with big blocks and high HP numbers and they both swiched to mild smallblocks for the street. I have talked a lot with Brian at TP also and the stories he tells of his big block T are words to remember. 130-140 MPH at the track and not even trying! Main problem, hooking up.

The calculator doesn't account for track conditions and a few other variables, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize these things are not to be taken lightly. That's the main reason I'm not concerned about running a stock SBC. It should be more than enough for the street. I don't street race and I have no plans of welding a full cage in my T to do it.

There is a ricer guy at one of the parts stores I go to. He was spouting off about how his Honda made over 200HP and he would have no problem stomping a T Bucket. All I had to do was ask him a simple question: "So, how fast would your Honda be if it was 1,000 lbs. lighter? THAT'S a T Bucket." The argument ended at that.

I found out that my '84 SBC made about 170 HP when new, maybe even as low as 160. That calculator shows a 2,000 lb. car running 13.8 @98.2 MPH. I am NOT worried about being able to stay up in traffic.

All that being said, I still like to see one with all the goodies straped to it, but I sure as heck wouldn't want to try and drive one full out. These things are too small for that stuff.

tfeverfred · #8 08-22-2007, 08:18 PM

I just remembered. About a month ago, I was talking to Pete at TP about hooking up the throttle cable and kickdown. He said they don't use a kickdown on the T Buckets they sell. Again, the weight. Think about what one of these things would do on the freeway or street in you punched it at say.... 60MPH or higher.

None of this talk is meant to scare anyone from building what they want, but be aware. Ever wonder why you see so many high HP T Buckets for sale on Ebay that have low miles? Maybe it was more than the owner bargained for?

tfeverfred · #9 08-22-2007, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nailbomb

Heh, so your recomendation is to never race it? or probably get into the gas ever either?

I think my best options are either to find some vintage tin with a top so i can hide a cage, or try to find a guy who had a 1955 322 he was willing to sell...

theres always zippers modified coupe too, but its a bit pricey.

and honestly i thought if they sold frames with big block motor mounts that meant the frame should be able to handle big block power numbers in at least stock form...

Nailbomb, here's a link to Rod and Custom that has a feature about a T with a rollbar.

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...rack_roadster/

It can be made to look cool with a little work and planning. Also, I think that once you got used to how much power you had on tap, things would be okay. However, just about every strip is going to require a roolbar as a minimum in a roadster. C Cab maybe?

Nailbomb · #10 08-23-2007, 02:38 AM

honestly they did do a good job on hat one with the roll bar. very tastefull.

Still, this is a perfect example of what i harp on everyone else about, proper planning. My own inexperience just allowed me to underestimate my given combination choice is all. knowing what i know now i can take the proper steps to accomodate.

I said it befor, i'm not in a huge hurry to finish this project, and that still stands. If i need to shop for vintage tin that wouldn't bother me. It was something i was considering anyway, same with the C cab, as i mentioned in another post. I'm not a huge guy, so a old model T cab probably wouldn't kill me(i'm 5' 8"), and it still can be found with enough patience.

and rick, i've been in some pretty scarry rides, violent is a common adjective for wheelstanders, But i refuse to make something i can't drive hard. If you recall i was barely on this forum and was asking about the wheelie bars...