Up grade for frame plans

[Youngster]

This weekend I did some experimenting with a T that has a frame built from the plans I have posted in the Tech Articles here.

We swapped the bushed ends on the ends of the hair pins for heim ends. Although there didn't seem to be a problem with the bushed ends, I have always wondered if the heims wouldn't work better. As a result, we found the steering effort to be less with the heims on an unequal road surface. I don't think I would go as far as to say the ride quality was improved. At least I didn't notice any change during a 60 mile test drive.

The parts used were ordered from Speedway.

Heims...#175-0126
cone spacers...#546-4110

It should be noted here that a washer should be installed on the outside of the heim as a safty item incase of heim failure. We used a cone spacer for the washer to increase the articulation of the heim.

Ron

[Baby Huey]

Ron, I have to admit that as of yet I have not looked at your plan set....
I was wondering if you have thought of using tie-rod ends rather that Heims and Bushings ?
I have talked to lots of guys in this area at various car shows and cruise in's, and I'd have to say that 80% or more of the cars that are actually drivers, have Tie -Rod ends rather than Heims.
I know those little tapered inserts are a pain, but they are available and easy enough to weld in to the plates already there.
I'm thinking bout doing mine over and retro fitting the Tie-Rod ends...
I have a part number for some that are 5/8" thread so I won't have to turn out new threaded bungs..
I'll just turn out the tapered peices and weld em into the holes..."BH"

Part Number : McQuay-Norris ES323R ( Early 60's Chev. Car/Lt Truck) 5/8" thread

[Youngster]

BH ... I have and still do use Ford tie rod ends. With this set of plans I am trying to simplify the process of building a frame for those who haven't done it before. As you said the tapered button is a pain. The taps for the l.h. and r.h. threads are also expensive because they are an automotive thread and not used in industry. By using the heim end with a 1/2" bore, you can use a piece of the 7/8"x 1/2" bore DOM for the frame mount.

For those who would rather use the Ford tie rod end, you can have the hair pins tapped for the 11/16"x 18 thread when you order them. Speedway is the best sourse for the tie rod ends. They also have the jam nuts for them. I prefer the SS jams. For the hair pins you can use the right hand ends on both sides.

Right hand tie rod end ... p/n# 910-02909 ... $9.99
Left hand tie rod end ... p/n# 910-02919 ... $9.99
Right hand SS jam nuts ... p/n#910-01059 ... $2.99
Left hand SS jam nuts ... p/n#910-01159 ... $2.99

If you are using a pair of Ford 'bones, you will want to get the weld in bungs, p/n#910-02969.

BH...Check the taper on those Chebby tie rod end. Some had different tapers on them. If you find some time, take a look at those plans. I would be interested in your opinion.

Ron

[LumenAl]

Mine is all done with Ford style tie rod ends... except in Polished SS... Can't help myself sometimes...

[Youngster]

First let me say there isn't anything wrong with using tie rod ends. You need to check when you set up the bracket so the tapered stud isn't all the way back in it's socket. This is the only reason I've seen them fail. I might add, if you go to heims, be sure the flat surface on the ball dosen't go beyond the outside of the body. This sometimes happens if the heim is at too much of an angle. The result is the teflon wears out quickly and then you have to replace the whole heim joint.

Ron