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After cutting off all the brackets that were installed by the previous builder, I just find that I do not trust any of the work that had been done. The frame was supposedly "Professionally welded" by the person I bought it from. Well the more I look at them the more I do not trust them.

So whats the best option? Besides buying a new frame that is.

Cut out, bevel and re-weld?

Leave the welds and cut stiffening plates and weld the inside the frame?

Any other options out there?

There are a lot of good frame plans out there. The frame is the backbone of your roadster, everything directly or indirectly attaches to it. It is NOT a place to learn how to weld. It should be built by a competent, professsional welder who knows what rod to use, heat range, weld penetration etc. Learn on the brackets etc.It should be built in a jig or possibly on a perfect flat floor.You're better off buying a pre-assembled frame from a well-known company and be safe. Anyone can grind off the chickens--t and make it look good but how good is their penetration? Did they use the right rod or something they found in a yard sale? 80 MPH on a freeway between two semis is no place to find out the man who built your frame is a shoe-salesman who welds in his garage with a $100 mig-welder at night for a little extra money.
In buying a frame ask the company if they use 1 1/2" X 3" tubing or 2" X 3" tubing. Look close at the roadsters you see in a meet and decide which you'd rather have. A 1 1/2"er gives my the willys just to look at it. ChestersAlive

Hey there everyone, I've had a few people ask me if I was going to do a roll bar in my car. I don't know if I've ever seen one in a T before, but I'd like to see some pictures, just to see what it looks like. So please post some pics if anyone has some. Thanks!

Hey Guys,

Is there any tips or suggestions to remove slight surface rust on metal before priming?

Thanks, T-Bucket Bob

The front of my T sits lower than I like. I figured there were 2 ways to easily raise it. Add a spacer top of the spring or put the spring connection of the shackle above the frame mount. I now have the shackles turned up and like the hight it added. Any comments on doing this? I found pics on here with shackles both ways.

 100_4014.JPG (1.21MB)
Number of downloads: 30When I got this project the guy told me he believed the rear end was out of a 98 Mustang. What do you folks think?

I just bought the basis for my T Project this week, I have a frame with some suspension mounts, body, small pickup box and an 8" rear end. I am trying to find out who made the body, it is in black gelcoat and the pickup box has "Bird" molded in where the original said "Ford". Going off the way the body sits on the frame I am going to need a longer box so I will sell this one but was wondering if anyone has seen this body before?

Thanks!
~B~

The Feb.'10 ROD & CUSTOM has a very good and informative article on shocks. I think that it is a good read for everyone.

Jim

There is a very good article in the Jan.'10 issue of STREET RODDER on fiberglass repair. I believe that a lot can be learned from this article if you need a repair or to modify your body.

Jim

I tried the 14inch wheels from my donor car and they wont fit, have to use 15 wheels. What size wheel and tire combo are most of you guys running? Where can I get some wheels that wont break the bank, and I aint picky about style