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Building your own frame Rate Topic: ***** 2 Votes

#1 User is offline   ChestersAlive 
   

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 06:18 PM

There are a lot of good frame plans out there. The frame is the backbone of your roadster, everything directly or indirectly attaches to it. It is NOT a place to learn how to weld. It should be built by a competent, professsional welder who knows what rod to use, heat range, weld penetration etc. Learn on the brackets etc.It should be built in a jig or possibly on a perfect flat floor.You're better off buying a pre-assembled frame from a well-known company and be safe. Anyone can grind off the chickens--t and make it look good but how good is their penetration? Did they use the right rod or something they found in a yard sale? 80 MPH on a freeway between two semis is no place to find out the man who built your frame is a shoe-salesman who welds in his garage with a $100 mig-welder at night for a little extra money.
In buying a frame ask the company if they use 1 1/2" X 3" tubing or 2" X 3" tubing. Look close at the roadsters you see in a meet and decide which you'd rather have. A 1 1/2"er gives my the willys just to look at it. ChestersAlive

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#2 User is offline   butch27 

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 06:40 PM

Good advice Chester. I got a lot of good tips from your book.
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#3 User is offline   v65rider 

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 07:12 PM

View Postbutch27, on 19 November 2009 - 05:40 PM, said:

Good advice Chester. I got a lot of good tips from your book.


I just downloaded the book and looked a little at it. Lots of good information in it to compliment all the great advice here on this board. No such thing as too much advice!
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#4 User is offline   RPM 

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 07:53 PM

View PostChestersAlive, on 19 November 2009 - 06:18 PM, said:

There are a lot of good frame plans out there. The frame is the backbone of your roadster, everything directly or indirectly attaches to it. It is NOT a place to learn how to weld. It should be built by a competent, professsional welder who knows what rod to use, heat range, weld penetration etc. Learn on the brackets etc.It should be built in a jig or possibly on a perfect flat floor.You're better off buying a pre-assembled frame from a well-known company and be safe. Anyone can grind off the chickens--t and make it look good but how good is their penetration? Did they use the right rod or something they found in a yard sale? 80 MPH on a freeway between two semis is no place to find out the man who built your frame is a shoe-salesman who welds in his garage with a $100 mig-welder at night for a little extra money.
In buying a frame ask the company if they use 1 1/2" X 3" tubing or 2" X 3" tubing. Look close at the roadsters you see in a meet and decide which you'd rather have. A 1 1/2"er gives my the willys just to look at it. ChestersAlive


You got that exactly right. Great advice!

Oh and welcome to the site. :hooray:

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#5 User is offline   Todd 

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 09:25 PM

Welding used tie rod ends into water or gas pipe gives me the willys to even think about it.

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#6 User is offline   VegasBruce 

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 09:42 PM

Thanks Chester, and welcome. Where you at in Texas?

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#7 User is offline   LKE 

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 10:12 PM

I downloaded the free chapter today when I was home for lunch. I just skimmed thru it, but from what I saw, I think you guys that are building your first car should consider the $10 and get it. I am going to buy it just out of curiousity.
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#8 User is offline   BLUEGRASST 

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 10:27 PM

Welcome aboard Mr. C- anybody who wants to build, buy, or dream of a T Bucket should have your book. It is by far the best printed word on our drivers and dreams.
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#9 User is offline   benT 

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 10:53 PM

View PostTodd, on 19 November 2009 - 09:25 PM, said:

Welding used tie rod ends into water or gas pipe gives me the willys to even think about it.


:sofnny: me too!!!:sofnny:

I have a copy of Chester's original book. It has some good information, but is a bit out of date IMO. Some of the techniques are questionable, but there is also some neat low-buck ideas. If you're a first-time builder, its probably worth the bucks to have some more info, but like all "plans" make sure to look at all aspects with a critical eye; it'll be your :butt: in the seat!
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#10 User is offline   all-world1 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 11:12 AM

I just purchased and downloaded Chester's book. There's a lot of great info in it that supplements some of the material I already have, and lots of stuff that in it that I don't have. And what can you really buy for 10 bucks these days?
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#11 User is offline   butch27 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 12:03 PM

If you find a set of "BIRD" frame plans they are the most simple ones I've seen BUT do need to be longer.
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#12 User is online   der Spieler 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 05:49 PM

I think what is more important that whether a frame is made of 1-1/2" by 3" or if it's made of 2" x 3" is the wall thickness. My Speedway was 1-1/2" x 3" x 11 gauge (.120). I had no problems and the frame seemed to be adequate but if I do it again the wall thickness will be 3/16". The weight penalty is minimal as is the cost. The comfort and self assurance from knowing you have a strong frame is immeasurable.

This post has been edited by der Spieler: 20 November 2009 - 05:49 PM


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