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Building your own frame
#1
Posted 19 November 2009 - 06:18 PM
There are a lot of good frame plans out there. The frame is the backbone of your roadster, everything directly or indirectly attaches to it. It is NOT a place to learn how to weld. It should be built by a competent, professsional welder who knows what rod to use, heat range, weld penetration etc. Learn on the brackets etc.It should be built in a jig or possibly on a perfect flat floor.You're better off buying a pre-assembled frame from a well-known company and be safe. Anyone can grind off the chickens--t and make it look good but how good is their penetration? Did they use the right rod or something they found in a yard sale? 80 MPH on a freeway between two semis is no place to find out the man who built your frame is a shoe-salesman who welds in his garage with a $100 mig-welder at night for a little extra money.
In buying a frame ask the company if they use 1 1/2" X 3" tubing or 2" X 3" tubing. Look close at the roadsters you see in a meet and decide which you'd rather have. A 1 1/2"er gives my the willys just to look at it. ChestersAlive
In buying a frame ask the company if they use 1 1/2" X 3" tubing or 2" X 3" tubing. Look close at the roadsters you see in a meet and decide which you'd rather have. A 1 1/2"er gives my the willys just to look at it. ChestersAlive
"All bulls--t ends when your ass hits the saddle!"
Chester
#3
Posted 19 November 2009 - 07:12 PM
#4
Posted 19 November 2009 - 07:53 PM
ChestersAlive, on 19 November 2009 - 06:18 PM, said:
There are a lot of good frame plans out there. The frame is the backbone of your roadster, everything directly or indirectly attaches to it. It is NOT a place to learn how to weld. It should be built by a competent, professsional welder who knows what rod to use, heat range, weld penetration etc. Learn on the brackets etc.It should be built in a jig or possibly on a perfect flat floor.You're better off buying a pre-assembled frame from a well-known company and be safe. Anyone can grind off the chickens--t and make it look good but how good is their penetration? Did they use the right rod or something they found in a yard sale? 80 MPH on a freeway between two semis is no place to find out the man who built your frame is a shoe-salesman who welds in his garage with a $100 mig-welder at night for a little extra money.
In buying a frame ask the company if they use 1 1/2" X 3" tubing or 2" X 3" tubing. Look close at the roadsters you see in a meet and decide which you'd rather have. A 1 1/2"er gives my the willys just to look at it. ChestersAlive
In buying a frame ask the company if they use 1 1/2" X 3" tubing or 2" X 3" tubing. Look close at the roadsters you see in a meet and decide which you'd rather have. A 1 1/2"er gives my the willys just to look at it. ChestersAlive
You got that exactly right. Great advice!
Oh and welcome to the site.
#9
Posted 19 November 2009 - 10:53 PM
Todd, on 19 November 2009 - 09:25 PM, said:
Welding used tie rod ends into water or gas pipe gives me the willys to even think about it.
I have a copy of Chester's original book. It has some good information, but is a bit out of date IMO. Some of the techniques are questionable, but there is also some neat low-buck ideas. If you're a first-time builder, its probably worth the bucks to have some more info, but like all "plans" make sure to look at all aspects with a critical eye; it'll be your
#12
Posted 20 November 2009 - 05:49 PM
I think what is more important that whether a frame is made of 1-1/2" by 3" or if it's made of 2" x 3" is the wall thickness. My Speedway was 1-1/2" x 3" x 11 gauge (.120). I had no problems and the frame seemed to be adequate but if I do it again the wall thickness will be 3/16". The weight penalty is minimal as is the cost. The comfort and self assurance from knowing you have a strong frame is immeasurable.
This post has been edited by der Spieler: 20 November 2009 - 05:49 PM
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