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engine and trans are in Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is online   akitagandy 
   

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 10:31 AM

engine and trans are in check out my gallery Posted Image

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#2 User is offline   dovehunter79 

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 10:52 AM

looking good!!!
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#3 User is offline   fordsbyjay 

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 06:20 PM

Looks good. That M/C sure is waaaaayyyy back there compared to my TP setup.
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#4 User is offline   belmor 

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 07:12 PM

View Postfordsbyjay, on 24 November 2009 - 05:20 PM, said:

Looks good. That M/C sure is waaaaayyyy back there compared to my TP setup.



Brake lines look great! I want to get with you when I get ready to do mine for some pointers!

~B~
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#5 User is offline   putz 

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 08:30 PM

I see you are using pressure brake switch. I have one but some people have changed it out for a mechanical switch on the pedal.They say these work better and longer.

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#6 User is online   akitagandy 

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 09:06 PM

View Postputz, on 24 November 2009 - 07:30 PM, said:

I see you are using pressure brake switch. I have one but some people have changed it out for a mechanical switch on the pedal.They say these work better and longer.

I had already run all of my lines before I heard the pros and cons, I'm thinking about changing it

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#7 User is offline   butch27 

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 11:01 PM

Lookin' fine!
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#8 User is offline   VegasBruce 

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 11:30 PM

:thumb: Sweet

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#9 User is offline   Screaming Metal 

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Posted 28 November 2009 - 05:01 PM

Hey, now THAT looks GOOD!!!! :hoist:
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#10 User is offline   AndyMenon 

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Posted 29 December 2009 - 02:28 PM

Brake lines look kool! Real clean job :rolleyes:
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#11 User is offline   rooster57 

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Posted 29 December 2009 - 07:13 PM

View PostAndyMenon, on 29 December 2009 - 01:28 PM, said:

Brake lines look kool! Real clean job :rolleyes:

The bigest problem with the brake switches is load. If you are using LED tail-brake ligts it will last forever if you are putting a large load on the switch, thats not what it was designed for. If in doubt set a small 12 volt relay and let the switch control the relay that in turn will supply power to the brake lts. Always remember to check the watts or amps of what you want to run and make sure the switch is rated for the load or amprage. watts divided by volts equals amprage. Volts times amps equals watts. Also rember that voltage drop can be a problem on long runs the way to combat this is to go up a wire size. Rule of thumb 30 amp relays for lights and fuel pumps 30 amp wire is number 10 gauge.
Your car is really lookin very nice good job.

This post has been edited by rooster57: 29 December 2009 - 07:15 PM


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#12 User is offline   Wild Mango 

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Posted 29 December 2009 - 08:06 PM

View Postrooster57, on 30 December 2009 - 12:13 PM, said:

The bigest problem with the brake switches is load. If you are using LED tail-brake ligts it will last forever if you are putting a large load on the switch, thats not what it was designed for. If in doubt set a small 12 volt relay and let the switch control the relay that in turn will supply power to the brake lts. Always remember to check the watts or amps of what you want to run and make sure the switch is rated for the load or amprage. watts divided by volts equals amprage. Volts times amps equals watts. Also rember that voltage drop can be a problem on long runs the way to combat this is to go up a wire size. Rule of thumb 30 amp relays for lights and fuel pumps 30 amp wire is number 10 gauge.
Your car is really lookin very nice good job.


Good advice from the Rooster. Use 14 volts for your calculations because the alternator will put out 13.8V. When in doubt go up a wire size, if you only got 12 Volts to start with you can't afford to lose any of 'em!
A poster on another thread here said DOT5 brake fluid fritzes those pressure switches, makes sense.

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